Hidden in the forests near Osogbo in southern Nigeria are statues of ancient odd-looking figures with huge eyes. But this forest and the statues are far from ordinary. They are, in fact, the last cultural remnants of the Yorubas.
© nigeriaheritage.com
The Yorubas are an ethnic group in south-western and north-central Nigeria, also known as Yorubaland. Long before Christianity brought by European slavers and colonialists took root in Nigeria, the Yorubas followed their own religion. And the forest near Osogbo, known as the Osun-Osogbo Sacred Grove, was and still is one of their most important religious sites.
A century ago, there were hundreds of such sacred groves in Yorubaland, almost every town had one. Eventually, many of these groves were abandoned or destroyed. But the Osun-Osobgo Sacred Grove dating back 400 years and the largest of its kind, survived. In the 1950s, Susan Wenger, an Austrian artist, with help of several other artists saved the grove from demolition by installing gigantic iron and mud sculptures. Their effort paid off and in 2005, the Osun-Osogbo Grove was officially listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
According to the Yoruba folklore, the river Osun that meanders through this forest, is the spiritual abode of Goddess Osun. All of the forty shrines, sculptures, and statues (old and new) in the grove are dedicated to Osun, the Goddess of Beauty, Love, Prosperity and Fertility, and other Yoruba deities.
Legend goes that, Osun had a fight with one of the wives of Sango, the God of Thunder, and transformed herself in the form of Osun River. When her secret abode was discovered by an elephant hunter, Osun made an agreement with the locals that she would protect them if they built a shrine for her and protect the grove.
Even today, worshippers come to this sacred grove to receive blessings from the goddess. To her followers, she is also known as Laketi, or she who responds. Devotees bring her offerings asking her to fulfill their wishes, usually fertility related. Every year in August, the two-week long Osun-Osogbo festival is celebrated at the grove in honor of the Goddess. For the locals, it is the month of celebration and traditional cleansing of the city.
Heading to Osun-Osogbo Sacred Grove? Here’s what you should know –
There is small entry fee and extra for camera. Hiring a guide is highly recommended to understand the grove’s significance and history. It is forbidden to click photos when cleansing rituals are taking place in the river.
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